I’ll never forget the first words to come out of my mother’s mouth, when she heard I was heading to Bali for my first ever surf trip many moons ago. “Don’t you dare get a tattoo”. Naturally, on the second night I wrote myself off, and decided it was a great idea to...
When signing up for a surf lesson, most instructors are equipped with the latest tunnel vision sunglasses, laser focused on having you standing up and riding a wave successfully. Some schools even offer a money back guarantee in this regard. Sadly, many road rules of...
You embark on that epic surfing road trip with your closest mates, boards stacked high atop of the roof and tunes blaring out of the radio. You’re all yabbering away in the backseat, like those hyperactive kids that just ate all the candy. You’ve got high hopes of...
The other day I found myself in the company of a regular girl-next-door, who was anything but a surfer. She had me in stitches about how she had just passed through a carpark full of surfers at the local break, who were yelling some pretty strange language to one...
For every large swell that graces the shore, there are those that will paddle out regardless of the size. But these surfers didn’t just acquire this skill overnight. For most normal humans that choose to take up the activity of surfing, it takes years, sometimes...
Have you ever met anyone that casually said “Oh yeah, I used to surf”? I have. More than once. And I’m always left scratching my head in disarray, wondering how on earth they can just stop surfing, once they have experienced it in its full glory. Sure old age will...